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FastReligion Stage 1 Upgraded Turbocharger (V2 MR16DDT)

FastReligion Stage 1 Upgraded Turbocharger (V2 MR16DDT)

Regular price $2,199.99 $1,999.99 Sale

 

It is finally here!

A simple, BOLT ON option for getting more pep out of your V2 step!

We worked closely with Turbobay Performance to come up with the easiest and BEST solution for you V2 owners!

Here is what we put together for you:

26% larger billet compressor wheel, custom designed in house at Turbobay.

Custom CNC Compressor Housing, custom made at Turbobay.

Clipped OEM Turbine Wheel

Upgraded Thrust Bearing

All Made in the USA

 

Why the oem sized turbine wheel? 

For the stage 1 turbo the goal was simple: Make an upgraded unit that delivers more top end torque and better CFM BUT can be installed without removing the turbo manifold.

Removing the turbo manifold/turbine housing is a BIG job, requiring (in most cases) the removal of the engine. Doing it this way avoids that completely, making for the easiest install we could come up with.

There is a $600 core charge. Once you have installed the turbocharger, you can send us back your oem turbo. IF it is in good, usable, condition, we will refund you the full $600 of the core charge.

 

FAQ:

Do I need a tune after installing this?

Short answer: yes. Long answer: The car will run and drive per normal with the new turbo on the stock tune. IF you need to drive the car before getting a tune it is advised NOT to go wide open throttle. The ECU will compensate for the most part, but you just increased the CFM of the turbo by a good bit so it will not be perfect and could cause damage. Remember, a turbo only makes boost when over a certain percentage of throttle, so if you stay out of it it will drive fine.

Can I run this with the OEM downpipe?

YES! One of the hardest things to do on a V2 MR16DDT Juke or Sentra is the downpipe/EGR system. The primary cat is a massive restriction for sure, but it is designed to handle a bit more than the oem exhaust output and temperature. So running this turbocharger with a tune it should be okay. You will not get the full benefits from the turbo though. As mentioned before, the primary cat is a huge restriction, so you may not see the same percentage increase in horsepower and torque as others who remove the cat. 

Can I run this and keep the rest of the car stock?

You can, but it is not suggested. The oem diverter valve is terrible. This turbo will for sure cause the valve to leak significantly more. You should upgrade the diverter valve before doing this turbo upgrade. The oem intercooler is another issue. The stock unit heat-soaks VERY quickly, especially with how small the turbo is (even with this upgrade). It is a good idea to upgrade that, but this turbo will work with the oem unit.

Who can tune my car?

We are working on getting a dedicated tuner to send V2 owners to for tuning. If you reach out to ECUtek directly, they will point you to a tuner who can tune your car. Remember DYNO tuning is always recommended over street tuning.

How much more power will this make over stock?

We cannot answer that. It depends on the tune, the bolt-ons you have, the condition of the engine, and where in the world you are located. All we can do is provide you with the best hardware we can, the rest is up to your tuner/builder.

Okay, so its 26% bigger, what about other specs?

We have worked with Turbobay to set this turbo up the best way we could for the user. Unfortunately a LOT of people and other companies try to copy parts like this, so to avoid that we have agreed with Turbobay to keep the full specs to ourselves. We do this with our camshaft profiles as well. This turbo is only available through us here at FastReligion.

I want to keep my OEM turbocharger, just in case I need it, can I do that?

SURE! If we do not receive your turbo back you will not receive your $600 core charge back. This is standard practice with parts like this, we are sure you have seen a core charge if you ever bought an alternator at a parts store, or a brake caliper. If you want the core charge money back you can always call local junk yards to see if they have a turbo you can buy to send us.

Don't you say bolt on upgraded turbos aren't good?

Here's the thing; a bolt on upgraded turbo is limited in what it can do based on the size of the housings it is in. If you are looking to maximize what you can do without going full custom turbo kit, a bolt on turbo is for you. When I discuss BIG power, I refer to 350+ horsepower on these engines. A true big turbo system is for the person who wants the best you can get without sacrificing top end power for the sake of OEM packaging. Upgraded turbos like these use design principles the manufacturer used, which in this case, focused on low and mid range torque. This turbo will not get you 300 horsepower on a dynojet. IF you want BIG power, you need a big turbo. This is for someone who wants more power, a slightly better torque curve (less mountain more linear), and oem packaging so you can pass as stock.

 

To install (professional installation required!):

-Remove Cowl (plastic and metal).

-Remove the intake system from the turbocharger.

-Remove heat shielding and sensors from the turbocharger.

-Remove oil feed/drain and coolant lines from the center housing.

-Remove the v-band clamp that holds the center housing onto the turbine housing.

-Using a small chisel or flat head screw driver; works all visible sections of the v-band area to free the center housing from the turbine housing *DO NOT focus on just one area, if you do this you can damage the turbo shaft and render the core un-usable*.

-Remove the turbo.

-Take a rag or paper towel and block the ports inside the turbo so debris cannot get into the engine during the next step.

-Take a piece of fine grit sandpaper and lightly sand the turbine housing where the center housing slides into it. This will make the install of the new turbo MUCH easier.

-VERY CAREFULLY, apply a small bit of engine oil to the contact area between the turbine housing and center housing then slide the new center housing in. Make sure it slides in square, if the turbine wheel hits the turbine housing it could damage the unit.

-Reinstall all components you removed.

-Unplug the coil packs and crank the car over a few times to get oil into the turbo.

-Plug the coils back in and fire it up!